Kasukabe Hachiman autumn mini pilgrimage

But recently, the trees have been done in by a massive flock of mukudori, raucous and messy starlings that have been driven out of the other station front trees. The poor ginkgo has lost its luster. 

I looked around for other golden trees in the city, checked the maps, got on my bicycle, and discovered some protected ones at the ancient Kasukabe Hachiman Shrine. 

This shrine is ancient enough, but it is in fact a tribute to a yet older Hachiman shrine. About 800 years ago Minamoto Yoritomo set up the shogunate in Kamakura City and made it the seat of government. He refurbished an older shrine and temple complex, and made it into Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, the centerpiece of the capital and invited Hachiman, the patron god of warriors, to reside there. At that famous shrine, on either side of the steps leading to the main building, are two massive ginkgo trees that have stood for 1000 years. 

In that era, a retainer of the Minamoto by the name of Kasukabe so revered Tsurugaoka Hachimangu that he decided to build its likeness, creating Kasukabe Hachiman Shrine. He took branches from the ginkgo trees at Kamakura and planted them in the forecourt of the new shrine. Today, the biggest and oldest  tree towers over the approach to the shrine. It’s said to be a “power spot” in modern parlance - a natural feature laden with spiritual power that it confers on visitors. 

When I visited in mid November, the original tree was just beginning to turn color from chartreuse to gold. The younger ones around were already fully gold. The revered tree is wrapped around with a massive nawa, a rope with paper streamers to show its spiritual status. 

The shrine is primarily dedicated to Hachiman, the Minamoto clan’s patron god, and protector of warriors. But it also has some other miniature versions of important shrines.

Behind the main shrine is a tiny pilgrimage to Kashima, Atago, and Katori Shrines, plus Okunoin. Further on, a little slope leads to a dozen or so more miniature shrines to various Buddhist and Shinto sacred sites. It’s usually quiet and peaceful there, shaded by trees and bamboo. 

The small stand of bamboo is atmospheric, with the little reed fences and the scattered leaves around. When I see this, I realize the appeal of the tiny pilgrimage route. For the infirm, the old, and the busy who can’t make it to the heritage sites, this little place has all the elements of those big name sites and without the crowds. 

Next door to Hachimangu is another significant shrine that has elements reminiscent of the more famous pilgrimage destinations. This one is an Inari Shrine complete with a set of stairs and red banners. 

There is a little park next to the shrines, also well treed and frequented by gate ball players. Around the park are many magnificent houses both old an new, some with quirky architecture. Keep your eye out for the house with the conical roof. On the other side of Kasukabe Station, a short walk away, there are many old kura storehouses that have survived for centuries. It’s a great autumn walk. Bring a camera. 

If you walk back to Fuji Dori, the station front street on the west side of Kasukabe Station, you can warm up with samples of tea at Otsudzumien, the popular tea shop in the city. 

How to get there: Get off at Yagisaki Station on the Tobu Urban Park Line and walk about 3 minutes north.