Big Shrine Visits

In pre-pandemic times, I’ve had such amazing hatsumode experiences, the first visit to a shrine or temple that took me to sacred spots around the Kanto area, within easy reach of where I live.

One of the first places in Tokyo that I braved the cold winter night for was Meiji Jingu, the shrine dedicated to the spirits of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. It was already familiar to me because I worked in the area for many years, and I often walked through the shrine grounds to and from workplaces. One aspect of their lives that drew me to the shrine was Empress Shoken’s modern outlook on Japan. She imposed on the imperial court western fashion and promoted education for women.

Getting to and from the shrine didn’t go exactly as planned, but it was a great first shrine visit. That new year’s eve, I left my suburban Chiba Prefecture home after 10 p.m for a one-hour train ride to Harajuku Station and had anticipated that I would have to wait in line. The line was a throng stretching across the entire shrine approach path. I kept warm by huddling with other friendly and freezing people. It took about an hour waiting to get to the offertory box but the experience was worth it with the pageantry and the golden rain of five yen coins soaring in the cold air. Volunteers provided hot drinks and I hurried to return on the train ride home. I fell asleep on the way and had to backtrack a few stations to get home.

Some years later, and no longer working in Tokyo, I looked to other places that would be significant to my life in Japan and settled on a hatsumode trip to Katori Shrine in Chiba Prefecture. The shrine is the birthplace of one of Japan’s longest practiced martial systems, Tenshin Shōden Katori Shinto-ryu, which spawned many other martial arts in Japan. My companions and I drove through the night and arrived just before dawn to make our offerings to pay respect to this centuries-old tradition.

In these pandemic times, I stay much closer to home. The first place I visit is Atago Shrine in the center of the city. This shrine is said to have been established after the town suffered a fire and dedicated the shrine in the year 928 to placate Kagutsuchi, the fiery god who fatally wounded his mother Izanami on the way into this world. The shrine is seldom crowded, so I don’t have to wait long to pay my respects.

The shrine is famed for its kadomatsu. These decorations are constructed of pine, bamboo, and sometimes decorated with plum blossoms to welcome the toshigami, the Shinto deity who presides over the year. But Atago Shrine goes big. Every year, Atago Shrine displays Japan’s tallest kadomatsu that top the torii gate. It’s hard to capture the full size of these massive pillars in the front street.

Japan's tallest kadomatsu at Atago Shrine, Noda City

So here’s to your happiness in 2022 from the home of Japan’s tallest kadomatsu. Stay warm and safe!