The Japanese Macaques Through Lenses

The story of the Japanese Macaques is rather more fascinating than I thought. Seeing them face to face has touched my soul in a deeper kind of sense and knowing about them has changed my perspective of what they are, mere monkeys. It allowed me to see the wonder that nature possesses.

The first time I ever saw these monkeys was back in 2018 when we were driving on our way to Shirakawa-go. It was at the height of Winter and it could have been the perfect time to watch them playing in the snow. However, it wasn’t as they just quickly waltzed across the road, climbed up the trees, and disappeared out of nowhere. That was really the closest I have seen them. And, the most vivid ones are from photographs on magazines and the internet.

This time, though, I was going to see them in their natural home. Situated in the valley of the Yokoyu-River in the northern part of Nagano Prefecture is Jigokudani Yaen Koen, famously known as Jigokudani Monkey Park. It is a part of Joshinetsu Kogen National Park which is protected and conserved by the Government of Japan. From Hakuba Village, we drove East for about an hour and a half to reach the monkey park.

Upon exiting the main highway and getting on the foot of Yamanouchi, we noticed steam rising from Onsen (traditional Japanese bath house) which lined up both sides of the town. You can already guess that the road went uphill as the town itself was located in the mountain (still part of the Japanese Alps).

Before eventually reaching the ravine where the Macaques come down from the surrounding forest to bathe in its natural hot springs, one has to trek a short distance of 1.6 Km. The path is lined up with trees on both sides of the mountain which provides a calming and scenic route. The sulfuric smell coming from the hot springs filled the air and there were patches of snow down the ravine which got thicker and thicker as I drew closer to where the monkeys are.

I was greeted with a few adult Macaques which appeared to be indifferent of my presence. I slowly picked up the camera hanging around my neck to take some snaps, I sat there quietly to avoid startling them but to my surprise they were just acting as if they knew someone would take a photo of them. I have read about a photographer who went to take pictures of these beautiful creatures years back; she literally said that when her eyes met their gaze the monkeys threateningly bared their teeth. I guess these monkeys have gotten so used to people already.

I went up and walked further until I reached their rendezvous. There were very few people who got there first; guess the ones who are serious about photographing these creatures, with their long lenses and camera kits.

Seeing the monkeys was such a sight. They were like people busily going about their daily business. Frankly, they have so many human-like behaviors, and it's kind of funny.

What really got my attention were the breastfeeding Macaques. I watched closely how they carried their babies and fed them. It was astonishing.

The offspring of the Japanese Macaques have no relationship to their fathers and are left to their mothers. The mother solely takes care of and raises the baby. She is the only one left to fend for her young until they are independent enough. 

The mother and child bond of the Macaques is an epitome of who and what they are. 

Note on Transportation: Jigokudani Yaen Koen can also be accessed through a two-step journey by taking a bus from Hakuba to Nagano Station and taking another bus (Nagaden Snow Monkey Express Bus) or train (Nagano Dentetsu Train Line followed by a Nagaden local bus) from Nagano Station to the Monkey park.